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Water Valves
In a municipal water system, the source of water is the
water main that runs beneath the street. A corporation
stop is located at the tap-in; it is usually made of brass
and is installed using a special tool that doesn't require
shutting off the water supply.
A second valve, the curb stop, is located at the
property line; it controls the flow of water to the
residence. The curb stop is similar to the corporation
stop, but it is used to shut off the water for repairs,
nonpayment of water bills, or flooded basements. Since the
corporation stop is usually inaccessible, the curb stop is
used as the isolation valve. The curb stop is in an access
box, and a long-handled wrench or "key" is used to reach
the valve.
In a typical installation, the water line then leads to
a pit where the meter is installed. (In older homes, the
meter may be located inside the house.) A meter stop is
mounted on the street side of the water meter to isolate
the meter for maintenance. Some locales call for a gate
valve to be installed on the house side of the meter to
shut off water for repairs. The curb and meter stops are
not intended to be used frequently and can fail if used
too often.
The water line then leads underground to where it
enters the house. Two valves are usually installed at that
point. First is the main shut-off valve, probably a gate
valve or a ball valve, and next the pressure-reducing
valve, which regulates the water pressure to the rest of
the house.
The line then usually leads to the water heater, where
it splits, one branch continuing as the cold water line
and the other supplying the heater, but first it passes
through a stop valve, which can shut off the water for
maintenance. At the bottom of the heater is a boiler
drain, which can be used to drain the heater. At the top
of the heater is a pressure-relief valve.
If the laundry tub is located nearby, boiler drains may
also be installed there to connect to the washer hoses.
(If a washing machine box is used, a variety of valves may
be used.) One or more pipes lead to the outside of the
house where a hose bib or a sillcock will be found. These
may be freezeless types.
Each fixture will have a supply stop where the supply
tube connects to the water line. This allows for the
repair or removal of the fixture without shutting off the
water to the whole house. And each fixture will have some
type of valve as well. Sinks and lavs will have faucets.
Tubs and whirlpools will have control valves, as will
showers. Toilets will have flush valves.
If the refrigerator has an icemaker, or if there is a
hot water dispenser installed, there will be a saddle
valve mounted on the cold water line nearby.
If a sump pump is installed, it will discharge through
a check valve to prevent the discharged water from leaking
back into the sump.
It
should be remembered that any valve that allows for a
discharge of water creates a potential risk of backflow
into
the municipal water supply.
Vacuum breakers are required by most codes for
dishwashers,
for water softeners, and for any faucet to which a hose
may be connected.
Without a vacuum breaker, there is always a chance
(however slim) of siphoning contaminants into your
drinking water system.
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mm
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6
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8
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10
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15
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20
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25
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32
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40
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50
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65
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80
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100
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"
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1/8
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1/4
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3/8
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1/2
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3/4
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1
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1 1/4
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1 1/2
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2
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2 1/2
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3
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4
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Types of Water Valves
Ball
Valves
Check
Valve
Gate Valves
Build-In
Valve
Floating
Valves
Angle
Valves
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